Wednesday, 29 January 2014

How an effective damp proof course will make your home energy-efficient

The simple fact is that any damp wall loses its thermal efficiency. What you may not realise is the massive difference that can make to your heating bills. 

When Plymouth University undertook independent testing of the unique Peter Cox product called DryWall Thermotek the results proved conclusively that as much as 29% of heat lost through a damp wall was saved.  But that’s just the start of the savings you can make.  

Add up just how much you’ve spent on replacing  damp plaster and wallpaper, on expensive products to remove ugly black spot mould growing in corners and on repairing loose or decaying floor boards and kitchen units.  Even with these costs spiralling with your energy bills, none of these everyday rescue measures will actually deal with the problem at source.

What causes a wall to become damp?

Most houses built before 1920 have no damp proof course at all. From impressive stately homes built by the leading architects of their day through to popular terraces, nothing was done to stop ground dampness rising into the fabric of the structures.  It simply wasn’t understood as it is now.  Effectively the water rises into the very pores of the wall through capillary action, rather like  blotting paper dipped in a glass of water. Anything that comes into contact with the damp walls can potentially be affected by fungal decay. That includes skirting boards, timber panelling, floor boards and decorations.

After 1920, different forms of damp proof courses started to appear. To try and create an impervious barrier against water, felt was laid in bitumen in the mortar joints or slate was embedded in the mortar.  These old types of barrier are prone to perish and break down due to movement, settlement and just the passage of time.

In modern houses, a plastic style of damp proof course (DPC) has become the ‘norm’ .  Whilst more durable, these can become ‘bridged’ where ground is raised above the DPC, rendering the DPC ineffective.

At Peter Cox, experience shows that most houses built before the 1970s have a damp problem, whether it’s because there’s no DPC at all or that it has failed over time. 

Peter Cox Invents the Patented Solution

Sixty three years ago, Peter Cox was a well respected stone mason and contractor, frequently asked as part of his daily work to fit a damp proof course to pre-existing buildings – known as a “retrospective” fit.  Obviously, it needed to be done with the least mess and disruption, yet be able to control rising dampness and to go on to protect the property for the future. Not only did he solve it, he created his own revolutionary, patented answer which is the forerunner of all ‘remedial’ DPCs fitted to existing buildings.

Over the next 50 years his ‘system’ has been improved as new products and techniques have been made available. The latest Peter Cox DPCs effectively keep the walls dry from rising damp, helping to reduce heat loss through the entire property.  Once the damp problem is fully resolved, the risk of rotting floors is reduced and all that remains is for the plaster and decorations to be replaced in the knowledge the damp problem has been resolved and will not return.  Quite simply, it’s one of the most effective things you can do to reduce your running costs and keep your home feeling safer, warmer, and better for your health.

How a Peter Cox ‘Dry Wall’ DPC is Installed

To cure rising damp, the installation of a damp proof course is a relatively straightforward operation. It does require skill and experience though to make sure the work is effective, while causing the least disturbance to the occupants.

A mortar joint is chosen, normally around 150mm above the external ground level where a series of 10-12mm diameter holes are drilled horizontally at 150mm ‘centres’. The holes are drilled from one side – to within 40mm of the remote side, thereby avoiding disturbance to the other side of the wall - then filled with Peter Cox Dry Wall damproofing cream. This is a silane material which lines the pores of the mortar and brickwork to make them completely resistant to the passage of moisture. One key difference with the system is that the chemical used doesn’t block the wall or stop it from breathing.

It takes between four to six weeks for the cream to diffuse into the mortar joint and spreads through the whole depth of the wall to create a horizontal waterproof barrier against rising damp. The dampness that was there ABOVE the new dpc line can now begin to dry out naturally by evaporation.

As the drying out happens, a second major issue emerges – one that is all too often overlooked.

The existing dampness is full of salts, including nitrates and chlorides, drawn up from the ground, which will now concentrate on the surface of the masonry and on the plasterwork inside the property.  It’s vital that all the internal wall plaster affected by these salts is removed and replaced with Peter Cox ‘Dry Wall’ Coating, otherwise the wall can’t dry out as it should.

It’s the dusty part of the job but it’s absolutely essential to ensure you get the full benefit of your new DPC and start reaping your energy saving.  For an average British semi, normally the DPC installation, the removal of the old internal plaster and the full replacement with ‘Dry Wall Coating’ can be done within a week in one seamless procedure. 
Says, Richard Walker of Peter Cox Property Services, “ The majority of people have a new DPC, then re-plaster themselves only to find the wall is still wet. That’s actually because the salts from the ground weren’t taken into consideration. It’s an easy mistake to make and one we rectify for customers all the time. It just makes sense to let us advise you on the issues you may not know about.  On many property refurbishment projects where we install a DPC, the developer will  have their own plasterer finish the job with the wrong plaster mix ! That’s where the salts score every time. You must use the right wall ‘coating’ in the right way to deal with the salts and get a dry and energy-efficient finished result.”

The Peter Cox ‘Dry Wall’ approach is an All-In-One solution that is 100% effective  and comes with a full guarantee. Well over half a million guarantees have been given to customers to date, every single one honoured thanks to the quality of the process Peter Cox invented.

DryWall Thermotek

What Else Can Cause Walls to be Damp?

Peter Cox Property Services provide a holistic approach to dampness, not just finding but fixing all the ways it enters into or affects the property. There are four major causes:
  • Rising damp coming up from the ground. You need to fit an effective damp proof course. The Peter Cox ‘Dry Wall’ DPC and ‘Dry Wall’ coating.
  • Lateral dampness where an exposed eternal wall is affected. You need masonry protection coating to prevent rain penetration. Thermotek masonry protection cream does the job    
  • Condensation caused by water vapour in the property created by the occupants. Where a property is not ventilated properly to deal with the humidity created by the occupants, the Peter Cox ‘Whole House Ventilation’ system is at the forefront in providing cost effective solutions.
  • High ground level perhaps in basements or lower ground floor rooms. To control this form of dampness you need Peter Cox ‘Dry Room’ Waterproofing.

It may be that you property has a mixture of problems and you ideally need a Peter Cox qualified surveyor to identify them all and advise on the defects.

In summary, Richard says, “Perhaps the most important reason of all to ask the experts is that a damp property is a decaying asset and a health risk. So, do make sure the advice you get is trustworthy to help keep you, your home and your family safe and well, long term.  Before you spend another penny on cosmetic repairs, my advice is deal with any property dampness at source. That’s the smart way to save time, money and effort year after comfortable year and to do all you can to stop wasting expensive energy in your home.”

To discuss your property needs, call Peter Cox Property Services and relax knowing you’ll have the best advice from highly qualified surveyors. You just can’t put a price on that kind of peace of mind.  For more information please see:

Friday, 17 January 2014

Property expert advises homeowners to check for water damage after recent bad weather

As the country starts to clean up and assess the damage of the recent storms, the UK market leaders in property maintenance, Peter Cox, advise homeowners and landlords to carry out a few basic checks, to look for any penetration of rainwater.

Richard Walker said:  “Water damage can have a devastating effect on a building and can cause damage after even minimal rain. Some problems, if left unchecked, can lead to thousands of pounds worth of property damage or could even compromise your health.”

When people think of rain damage they usually assume it will come from the roof but that is not always the case. Leaks and water penetration can also occur through walls, the chimney, windows and doors, and if you have experienced water tables and floods, even up through the floors.

First, look for standing water on drive ways and outside your property.  This is a tell-tale sign that water is not draining away. It could be rectified by cleaning drains to allow the water to run off – however, if this fails it could mean that water is not draining away and could be running into your building. If you have a cellar or basement, check it for leaks, damp, mould and standing puddles of water.

Gutters should be inspected and cleaned for any blockages.  If water overflows it could seep into your building masonry. This will eventually become visible as a damp patch on the internal wall surface - often causing discolouration and peeling or flaking of paintwork or wallpaper and even plaster damage.

This in turn may turn into mould. Mould fungi are not always visible as they prefer dark, moist areas and so can colonise inaccessible parts of the home such as wall cavities, insulation or under floorboards. Some types of mould can cause health problems especially for the very young and the very old.

Richard said:  “Mould won’t appear immediately after water leakage, but if you have found water, we recommend you keep checking for mould on a regular basis as it could take a few weeks to appear.”

Dry rot and wet rot in the home are the most frequent and serious causes of timber damage in domestic properties. Both types of ‘rot’ can cause widespread damage to the timber and affect its strength and severely damage a building. Roof failure, leaking gutters and poor sub-floor ventilation can be the starting point for the rot to get a foothold.

The first evidence of a dry rot outbreak may be a mushroom-like fruiting body or fine grey-white hyphae strands spreading over the wood, which can appear overnight. Although it is called 'dry rot', dampness is a key factor, so dealing with any sources of moisture is the first action to take, and then ventilate the area to aid the drying process.

“The problem with water is that in some cases damage is not always immediately apparent,” said Richard.  “If your home has taken a battering in the storms and you find areas where water or damp is evident, keep a watchful eye for problems as they can sometimes take a few weeks or even months to develop into something that will become a lot worse.”

Further information on water damage and is treatment is available at

Thursday, 2 January 2014

Keep Out the Wet Weather with Damp Proofing Services

Winter has arrived, bringing with it the major challenge of damp and condensation in the home faced by people across the UK. If left untreated, damp can spread throughout a property and cause serious health issues, particularly for asthma and allergy sufferers. Damp problems in the home are particularly prevalent during winter months due to the increased difference in temperature between the cold outdoors and the inside of the home. This leads to moisture seeping through windows and walls, creating damp problems which can lead to issues such as dry rot, wet rot, and mould affecting the home.

Damp problems can cause the deterioration of structural timber, which can be a serious problem for buildings. However, with the assistance of a damp proofing specialist such as Peter Cox, you can easily ensure your home’s protection from any damp issues during winter. Their experienced damp specialists will be able to analyse your situation and provide effective damp proofing treatments tailored to your property.

So, how can you protect your home against damp problems this winter?

Ventilate to Remove Moisture: An effective method of prevent damp and condensation is by ventilating your rooms to keep air flowing. All you need to do is open the windows slightly to facilitate the escape of warm air to the outside and let in cool air.

Extractor Fans: Always use extractor fans for particularly humid areas such as the kitchen and bathroom. This helps to prevent moisture building up in the attic by evacuating air outside quickly. Doing this will prevent the moist air reaching other rooms - particularly bedrooms, which are often colder and more likely to be affected by condensation.

Heating: Use low levels of heat all day long rather than short bursts of high heat when you are in the house. Avoid using kerosene heaters as they release up to one litre of water per hour.

Insulation and draught-proofing: By blocking off draughts and insulating your loft, winter condensation and dampness can be prevented to a considerable extent. While draught-proofing, ensure that you do not block any permanent vents or rooms where there is condensation or mould.

Damp Proofing: Using a damp proofing specialist such as Peter Cox is the most effective method of preventing rising damp and penetrating damp in the home. They introduce their DryWall silane diffusion mixture into the wall, which reacts with the masonry to form a water-repellent resin which can prevent damp problems. Their affable, affordable service comes with a twenty-year guarantee.

By taking a few simple steps to prevent damp in the home during winter, you will be able to prevent any long term serious damage like mould, dry rot, and wet rot in the home whilst keeping it a happy, healthy place to live.


For more about damp proofing your property please click here

Friday, 20 December 2013

How to Make Your Home More Energy-Efficient

Looking for ways to save energy in your home and lower your utility bills? By improving the energy efficiency of your house, you can reduce high energy bills, improve comfort and make your house more eco-friendly. In fact, improving energy efficiency is the first step for homeowners who are interested in green remodelling. There are different ways by which you can transform your home's energy profile and save on electricity and heating.

While some of these changes are one-time investments, others are steps which you need to adopt and follow on a daily basis. You can also use the services of a property maintenance specialist, such as Peter Cox, to make your home more energy efficient and thereby save money. Affordable and effective damp proofing services from these damp proofing experts can save energy and money, because keeping your walls free of damp will cause them to retain heat much more effectively. Tests conducted have also indicated that there can be a total energy saving of up to 29% when their DryWall Thermotek damp proofing cream is applied to single-skin walls.

So, how can you secure your home exterior and make it more energy-efficient?

Effective Insulation: By insulating your walls, ceilings and attics, you will be able to slow the rate of heat flow into your house during summers and out of your house in winter. As such, less energy will be required to heat or cool the house. Extra insulation comes in a number of forms: fiberglass batt insulation can help prevent air leaks in unfinished, cracked or worn space as can blown-in insulation, foam insulation materials and spray foam insulation.

Peter Cox’s DryWall Thermotek masonry protection cream is a great option for insulating your home by keeping moisture out of your walls. In fact, its energy-saving properties qualify it for a reduction to 5% VAT.

Switch to Fluorescent Lamps (CFLs): Although CFLs cost more initially, they can result in considerable savings as they last around eight to twelve times longer than regular incandescent light bulbs.. On average, a CFL uses only about 27 watts to generate as much light as a 100-watt incandescent bulb, which is why they can last 10 times as long using 80 per cent less energy.

HVAC Repair or Replacement: Almost half the energy used in your home goes to heating and cooling, so it’s important to make smart decisions about your home's heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) system. If you’re looking to effectively and efficiently heat and ventilate your home, look no further than Peter Cox’s ThermoSave heat recovery system, which recovers up to 75% of the heat normally lost when vented outside, eliminating the need to further heat your home.

Window Replacement: Windows are a major source of heat loss for the home, and improving these is a cost-effective and quick way to improve your home’s energy efficiency. Replace aluminium frames with vinyl frames, which are more resistant to heat transfer. You can also tint your windows to keep away unwanted heat or cold from your house.

Replacing Old Appliances: As older appliances are less energy efficient, it is advisable to replace them with newer models. This will go a long way towards saving energy and lowering your electricity bills - but ensure that all the products you're buying suit your requirements as over-sized refrigerators, water heaters and other such appliances will lead to greater energy consumption.

By following the above mentioned ideas and suggestions, you'll not only save energy and reduce your utility bills but will also help reduce greenhouse gases and their impact on our environment without compromising on lifestyle.

For more information about Peter Cox please visit

Thursday, 19 December 2013

Add to the Value of Your Home with Basement Waterproofing

Thinking of a way to add value to your property and extending your living space without having to apply for planning permission or drastically altering the exterior of your home? For most homeowners extending their property, the focus is on loft conversion or building outwards. However, by converting a basement storey beneath your existing property, you can unlock a wealth of opportunities for a bigger and better home.

Converting basements into rooms is an economical and safe way to create additional living space, solve storage issues, and add value to your property. Unlike loft conversions, which are more suited to additional bedrooms and bathrooms, basements can be converted to any kind of space – who doesn’t dream of being able to say to their partner “I’m just heading down to the cinema” or “I’m just nipping downstairs for a swim?” Of course, these possibilities are at the luxurious end of the scale of basement conversion possibilities – an additional seating, dining or office area is all many houses and families need to transform the way they live.

The possibilities are endless, but it is important to make sure that your basement is waterproof before and is safe from rising damp and mould. For this, you need the help of the UK’s market leaders in basement waterproofing, Peter Cox. This property maintenance company provides a range of property services alongside basement waterproofing, such as damp proofing, dry rot treatment and woodworm treatment.

So, what factors are important to consider and what steps can you take ahead of a basement conversion?

Basement Conversion Preparation: Prior to any basement conversion, you will need to prepare your cellar. This involves clearing it completely of anything stored there, so those doing the basement waterproofing can easily complete their work.

Waterproofing Your Cellar: Walls and floors below ground level are subject to damp penetration, so it is imperative to enlist the help of basement waterproofing experts such as Peter Cox. These property preservation specialists can help to waterproof your basement area using their DryRoom waterproof system to install a tanking membrane which acts as a dry lining to the walls, and a cavity drainage channel around the edge of the room to ensure that no damp can seep in. With branches throughout England, Wales and Scotland, Peter Cox can provide a twenty-year guarantee for their damp proofing, basement waterproofing, woodworm and dry rot services.

Fittings and Fixtures: A key consideration for any basement extension process is light and comfort. It is imperative that the space is installed with the correct lighting solutions, plumbing and electrical fixtures. A great way to introduce light and natural ventilation into a basement is with the help of a well-designed light-well. Complimented by tall windows and doors at the basement level, a light-well will help to completely alter the feel of a space, making it barely noticeable that one is underground.

With space at a premium in the UK, basement conversions are fast becoming a popular way to get additional living space without moving. So, forget large extension plans and create a modern, liveable space with basement rooms close to your main living areas.

For more about basement waterproofing visit:

Wednesday, 18 December 2013

The Dangers of Dry Rot

Every year, homeowners across the UK spend large amounts of money on extensive renovations to repair damage caused by dry rot. Dry rot is caused by the presence of damp, moisture and condensation in the home, and can cause serious damage to your property affecting walls, floors, and structural timber. Unlike wet rot, dry rot can spread far beyond the point where moisture and damp have entered the home, meaning a dry rot infection must be detected and eliminated as quickly as possible, lest further damage to the home occur.

In order to prevent dry rot, one must ensure their home is protected against the entry of damp, condensation and moisture. For a long-term solution, seek assistance from an experienced dry rot treatment company such as Peter Cox. A reputable contractor with over five decades of experience in providing a range of property services such as wet rot and dry rot treatment, damp proofing, basement waterproofing and woodworm treatment, their dry rot treatments can repair damage to structural timber caused by dry rot and, through the use of such products as their DryWall +  damp proof course, can prevent the dry rot from ever returning.

What Causes Dry Rot?
Dry rot occurs when timber is exposed to moisture or comes into contact with damp masonry. The growth and spread of the dry rot fungus depends on certain environmental conditions - damp, stagnant conditions combined with lack of proper ventilation provide the ideal environment for the development of dry rot. Such damp conditions may occur for a number of reasons, such as internal plumbing leaks, condensation  or rain water penetration from outside the house.

Usually, the first signs of an outbreak may be the sudden appearance of a mushroom-like fruiting body or fine grey-white hyphae strands. The affected timber will become dry and brittle, and will crumble to the touch.

What are the Dangers of Dry Rot?
Dry rot can grow through damp masonry, brickwork and behind plaster, causing widespread structural damage. Dry rot’s ability to spread so rapidly can make treatment more complicated than with other types of rot - but if left untreated, the fungus can spread through an entire property, causing severe damage to structural timber and masonry which could lead to collapse.

The presence of dry rot itself doesn’t affect human health. However, its presence in a home may indicate high levels of dampness and condensation, which can cause respiratory problems and lead to other problems which can affect the health of you and your property, such as woodworm, wet rot, and mould growth. If you suspect a dry rot outbreak in the home, it is important to arrange a dry rot survey from an experienced property maintenance company such as Peter Cox.

Prevention and Treatment

Detect the Source of Damp: As dry rot is caused by damp and moisture entering the home, it is important to thoroughly inspect the interior and exterior of your home to find any source of damp. With professional assistance from Peter Cox’s dry rot specialists, you will be easily able to identify such sources like leaking gutters, rising damp, water leaks and poor ventilation that can also contribute to the problem.

Damp Proofing Treatment: You can also make your home more resistant to damp penetration with the help of Peter Cox’s damp proofing specialists. Peter Cox’s DryWall Thermotek masonry protection cream is applied to walls affected by damp as part of the damp proofing process and will help to prevent damp entering the home, thus not only helping prevent dry rot problems, but also helping to retain heat and thus conserving energy levels. Because of its eco-friendly, energy-saving properties (a single-coat application can yield an energy saving of 29%), the DryWallThermotek solution qualifies for a 5% VAT rate.

Dry Rot Elimination: Remove all infected timber and replace with pre-treated timber. Any remaining timbers at risk of being affected by the dry rot should be treated with an effective fungicide. Where the dry rot has passed through the masonry, it should be treated with a water-based biocide.

Dry rot is one of the most damaging conditions a property can suffer. If not controlled immediately, the condition can cause enormous damage in a short period of time. It is absolutely essential to take proper preventive and remedial steps with the help of dry rot experts such as Peter Cox in time to control the growth of the fungal decay.

For more information about dry rot please see:


Wednesday, 3 July 2013

“Is damp timber more susceptible to woodworm?”

Virtually all wood has the potential to be a home for woodworm and wood boring insects. Some ‘experts’ say the incidence is greater in centrally heated houses as it disturbs the woodworm’s natural seasonal rhythm, others offer conflicting advice that heating reduces the incidence! Richard Walker, National Development Manager of Peter Cox Property Services has his take on it is based on a lifetime of empirical evidence.

“We have an extensive databank of gathered statistics and the simple fact is woodworm can strike just about anywhere you bring a bit of infested wood into your home, whether it’s brought in with secondhand furniture or grazing in the old timbers supporting your roof.  The woodworm can even fly in through an open window or door and set up home for their young in your woodwork. Yes, damp timber is more prone to infestation, wherever the moisture content rises about the level to which it can start to rot, but that doesn’t mean dry wood is safe from attack.”

“In Britain, there are three main types of common woodworm these are: Common Furniture Beetle (Anobium punctatum) which leaves round holes around 2mm diameter. Deathwatch beetle (Xestobium Rufovillosum) which loves partially decayed hardwoods such as oak  and the Wood boring weevil, (Pentarthrum Huttoni) which only attacks decaying  timber and leaves behind ragged holes.  

“Contrary to many misconceptions, the holes the little ‘mites’ leave are not entrances but exits. When the eggs have hatched, the larvae continue to mature until, after about three years in the case of Furniture Beetle, they emerge from the wood to fly away and reproduce.  The interior and often unseen damage is mostly caused by these larvae which feast on the nutritious sugars and starch in the wood. 

“In a severe case of infestation, it’s often because the timber contains sap wood which is more susceptible and a good deal tastier for hungry larvae. The tell-tale sign that they’re in your wood is the finely powdered microscopic sawdust called  ‘Frass’ that they create as they burrow and chew up your furniture, floorboards, roof trusses or window frames.

“Deathwatch and Wood Boring Weevils prefer damp timber that’s partially decayed and prone to fungal attack.  The infestations are often found to beam ends or wall plates where the timber has become wet due to defects in the roof coverings or gutters allowing Dry Rot or Wet Rot to occur.

“In modern homes, the incidence of woodworm is much reduced by using reconstituted wood products such as plywood chipboard, MDF and hardboard which have the ‘tasty’ sugars and starches removed during the boards’ manufacture.  But in older properties where a levelling layer of plywood has been laid over old floorboards, woodworm can still penetrate through the plywood or hardboard overlay. It won’t live in the ply or hardboard but it will eat its way out through there, leaving the same tiny holes.

So what do you do if you find the signs of woodworm infestation?

Says Richard, “A thorough survey is a must to find and identify the type of woodworm. At Peter Cox Property Services, we will explore from the top of the roof void and timbers right down to the floorboards and subfloor of the Ground Floor if necessary, looking for the flight hole emergence points and the fine frass which is the wood dust left by the boring larvae as they munch away below the surface of the wood, forcing the dust out through holes made by previous exiting worms or beetles. Occasionally, the dust may appear even when larvae are no longer present but that can be due to simple vibration. It’s our job to know the difference and not to suggest unnecessary treatments as much as to recommend the right treatment.

“If the woodworm has taken hold in a roof, our surveyors are trained to look for evidence of bats roosting and report to English Nature who advise on when we may proceed with our treatments – usually after the bats have left for the season. On occasion, the bats have to be carefully re-housed to let us treat and then returned safely afterwards. It’s really important as bats are a protected species. As a responsible contractor, knowing how to handle the presence of bats is vital. Needless to say, we use only bat friendly treatments anyway.

“Apart from the roof, we will survey your entire house, turning back carpets to inspect flooring and checking all the home’s joinery for evidence of woodworm activity. Particularly susceptible areas are wherever water is spilled regularly, such as in the floor surrounding the bath, wash basin and lavatory. At the risk of being indelicate, urine contains just the sugars that woodworm larvae love!

“Once we’ve established all the areas to treat, we sweep down the timbers and treat with our specialist form of the insecticide Permetherin. This has a ‘detergent’ added to help the oily ingredient disperse in water so it will better soak into the wood and go on to provide a protective veneer against future infestation.

“Generally speaking, it doesn’t have to be a big or disruptive procedure. The biggest upheaval is in accessing floor timbers by lifting any carpets, vinyl or floor coverings. It takes one of our specialist teams around two days on average to treat an entire house, top to bottom.

“The treatment we use is a water based micro emulsion – the most specialised and effective solution you can get from any professional contractor. It’s approved by the Health and Safety Executive, and we have a “one-hour re-entry approval” and certification which simply means you can continue living in your home just an hour after treatment has dried. That’s important news for homeowners and landlords in that they don’t have to move out or re-house their tenants while our work is completed.  The treatment is completely odour free.

“On average, a 3-bedroomed semi will cost around £1500 for a full whole house treatment, and like all our work, comes with a full guarantee. Peter Cox also works in association with Barclays Partner Finance and together we provide the  one of the lowest APRs to make it even easier to send woodworm packing back to the forest without boring a hole in your home and your household budget!”

“Peter Cox have treated properties from the magnificent Lincoln Cathedral to tiny two-up, two-downs. Big or small, the skill is to treat quickly, especially if you notice the ‘tell-tale’ woodworm holes. Catch it quickly by calling in the experts and you can save yourself a fortune in remedial works. One final word, don’t ever be pressured into carrying out work that isn’t strictly necessary. You’ll be amazed how much money you can save by using a trusted specialist like Peter Cox who will happily provide exactly what you do need - and not try to sell you what you don’t.”

To discuss your property or to arrange a survey, please get in touch with your nearest office of Peter Cox Property Services here or you can also call 0800 789 500 to talk to the experts and we’ll send a surveyor with local knowledge of your area.