The simple fact is that any damp wall loses
its thermal efficiency. What you may not realise is the massive difference that
can make to your heating bills.
When Plymouth University undertook independent testing of the
unique Peter Cox product called DryWall Thermotek the results proved conclusively that as much as
29% of heat lost through a damp wall was saved.
But that’s just the start of the savings you can make.
Add up just how much you’ve spent on
replacing damp plaster and wallpaper, on
expensive products to remove ugly black spot mould growing in corners and on
repairing loose or decaying floor boards and kitchen units. Even with these costs spiralling with your
energy bills, none of these everyday rescue measures will actually deal with
the problem at source.
What
causes a wall to become damp?
Most houses built before 1920 have no damp
proof course at all. From impressive stately homes built by the leading
architects of their day through to popular terraces, nothing was done to stop
ground dampness rising into the fabric of the structures. It simply wasn’t understood as it is
now. Effectively the water rises into
the very pores of the wall through capillary action, rather like blotting paper dipped in a glass of water. Anything
that comes into contact with the damp walls can potentially be affected by
fungal decay. That includes skirting boards, timber panelling, floor boards and
decorations.
After 1920, different forms of damp proof
courses started to appear. To try and create an impervious barrier against
water, felt was laid in bitumen in the mortar joints or slate was embedded in
the mortar. These old types of barrier are
prone to perish and break down due to movement, settlement and just the passage
of time.
In modern houses, a plastic style of damp
proof course (DPC) has become the ‘norm’ .
Whilst more durable, these can become ‘bridged’ where ground is raised
above the DPC, rendering the DPC ineffective.
At Peter Cox, experience shows that most
houses built before the 1970s have a damp problem, whether it’s because there’s
no DPC at all or that it has failed over time.
Peter
Cox Invents the Patented Solution
Sixty three years ago, Peter Cox was a well
respected stone mason and contractor, frequently asked as part of his daily
work to fit a damp proof course to pre-existing buildings – known as a
“retrospective” fit. Obviously, it
needed to be done with the least mess and disruption, yet be able to control
rising dampness and to go on to protect the property for the future. Not only
did he solve it, he created his own revolutionary, patented answer which is the
forerunner of all ‘remedial’ DPCs fitted to existing buildings.
Over the next 50 years his ‘system’ has
been improved as new products and techniques have been made available. The
latest Peter Cox DPCs effectively keep the walls dry from rising damp, helping
to reduce heat loss through the entire property. Once the damp problem is fully resolved, the
risk of rotting floors is reduced and all that remains is for the plaster and
decorations to be replaced in the knowledge the damp problem has been resolved
and will not return. Quite simply, it’s
one of the most effective things you can do to reduce your running costs and
keep your home feeling safer, warmer, and better for your health.
How
a Peter Cox ‘Dry Wall’ DPC is Installed
To cure rising damp, the installation of a
damp proof course is a relatively straightforward operation. It does require
skill and experience though to make sure the work is effective, while causing
the least disturbance to the occupants.
A mortar joint is chosen, normally around
150mm above the external ground level where a series of 10-12mm diameter holes
are drilled horizontally at 150mm ‘centres’. The holes are drilled from one
side – to within 40mm of the remote side, thereby avoiding disturbance to the
other side of the wall - then filled with Peter Cox Dry Wall damproofing cream.
This is a silane material which lines the pores of the mortar and brickwork to
make them completely resistant to the passage of moisture. One key difference
with the system is that the chemical used doesn’t block the wall or stop it
from breathing.
It takes between four to six weeks for the
cream to diffuse into the mortar joint and spreads through the whole depth of
the wall to create a horizontal waterproof barrier against rising damp. The
dampness that was there ABOVE the new dpc line can now begin to dry out
naturally by evaporation.
As the drying out happens, a second major issue
emerges – one that is all too often overlooked.
The existing dampness is full of salts,
including nitrates and chlorides, drawn up from the ground, which will now
concentrate on the surface of the masonry and on the plasterwork inside the
property. It’s vital that all the
internal wall plaster affected by these salts is removed and replaced with
Peter Cox ‘Dry Wall’ Coating, otherwise the wall can’t dry out as it should.
It’s the dusty part of the job but it’s
absolutely essential to ensure you get the full benefit of your new DPC and start
reaping your energy saving. For an average
British semi, normally the DPC installation, the removal of the old internal
plaster and the full replacement with ‘Dry Wall Coating’ can be done within a
week in one seamless procedure.
Says, Richard Walker of Peter Cox Property
Services, “ The majority of people have a new DPC, then re-plaster themselves only
to find the wall is still wet. That’s actually because the salts from the
ground weren’t taken into consideration. It’s an easy mistake to make and one
we rectify for customers all the time. It just makes sense to let us advise you
on the issues you may not know about. On
many property refurbishment projects where we install a DPC, the developer
will have their own plasterer finish the
job with the wrong plaster mix ! That’s where the salts score every time. You
must use the right wall ‘coating’ in the right way to deal with the salts and get
a dry and energy-efficient finished result.”
The Peter Cox ‘Dry Wall’ approach is an
All-In-One solution that is 100% effective and comes with a full guarantee. Well over
half a million guarantees have been given to customers to date, every single
one honoured thanks to the quality of the process Peter Cox invented.
 |
| DryWall Thermotek |
What
Else Can Cause Walls to be Damp?
Peter Cox Property Services provide a
holistic approach to dampness, not just finding but fixing all the ways it enters
into or affects the property. There are four major causes:
- Rising damp coming up from the ground. You need to fit an effective damp proof course. The Peter Cox ‘Dry Wall’ DPC and ‘Dry Wall’ coating.
- Lateral dampness where an exposed eternal wall is affected. You need masonry protection coating to prevent rain penetration. Thermotek masonry protection cream does the job
- Condensation caused by water vapour in the property created by the occupants. Where a property is not ventilated properly to deal with the humidity created by the occupants, the Peter Cox ‘Whole House Ventilation’ system is at the forefront in providing cost effective solutions.
- High ground level perhaps in basements or lower ground floor rooms. To control this form of dampness you need Peter Cox ‘Dry Room’ Waterproofing.
It may be that you property has a mixture
of problems and you ideally need a Peter Cox qualified surveyor to identify them all and advise on
the defects.
In summary, Richard says, “Perhaps the most
important reason of all to ask the experts is that a damp property is a
decaying asset and a health risk. So, do make sure the advice you get is
trustworthy to help keep you, your home and your family safe and well, long
term. Before you spend another penny on
cosmetic repairs, my advice is deal with any property dampness at source. That’s
the smart way to save time, money and effort year after comfortable year and to
do all you can to stop wasting expensive energy in your home.”
